13.12.07

DULCES DE CONVENTO


Terminó la tradicional exposición de dulces de conventos de la provincia de Sevilla. Buen momento para conocerlos. Pero no el único. Le propongo una ruta para realizar todo el año.
Comience junto a la Barqueta, en el Monasterio de San Clemente. Atraviese la antigua calle Reposo, cruce bajo el azulejo del titular, y entre en un compás donde sigue habitando la presencia de Rafael el portero y la de esos jóvenes que aprendieron a torear en medio de la historia. Llame al torno. Una voz delicada, quizás la de madre Macarena, nombre hermoso para un hermoso lugar, le atenderá. Pida un bizcocho de la casa, allí aparece espolvoreado con azúcar el escudo cisterciense dándonos la primera lección de historia del día. Enfile por la calle Santa Clara buscando los cielos que perdimos. En el cruce con la calle Santa Ana entre en el convento de la Abuela de Dios. Allí puede pedir unos bocaditos alemanes o unas mantas al estilo de Villalba del Alcor, que no se sabe quién fue antes. Comprobará que la devoción a la orden carmelita se explica en una monja alemana que ora et labora en el barrio de San Lorenzo o en unas monjas que se fueron a fundar a tierras onubenses. Deberá dar un largo paseo para continuar hasta el Monasterio de Santa Paula. Allí, entre cipreses y azulejos italianos, sigue habitando el alma de Cristina de Arteaga junto al alma de Pedro, ese portero que mezclaba palabras en latín con historias inventadas y que regalaba geranios blancos al visitante. Pida cualquier tipo de mermeladas. No encontrará nada igual. Rece con devoción a San Jerónimo para que no se hayan acabado los tocinos de cielo. Si la Providencia le permite probarlos comprenderá uno de los sentidos de la vida. Por Calle Sol busque el nombre monacal de Doña María Coronel en el Monasterio de Santa Inés. Tendrá múltiples dudas ante el torno, oirá sin Pecado Concebida en labios de lejano origen y propuestas muy dulces: pastas de Santa Clara, tortas de chocolate, bollitos de Santa Inés...el alma de Maese Pérez no le perdonaría que dejara de probarlos. Queda a su elección. Un paseo más. Atraviese el antiguo foro de la ciudad para llegar a la antigua judería de San Bartolomé. Allí está, entre San Nicolás y Santa María la Blanca el Monasterio de Madre de Dios, dominicas históricas que llegaron acoger a Isabel la Católica y que hoy sufren la amenaza de derrumbe en una ciudad que olvida sus tesoros. Junto a las escobitas de San Martín de Porres, la lista de dulces habla por sí sola: cordiales, almendrados de chocolate, gallina en leche, bienmesabe...El recorrido no puede acabar de forma más dulce.
Una advertencia. En este recorrido, que por supuesto no aparece en las guías, y que es ciertamtente incompleto, escuchará a madre Bernarda en Santa Paula asegurar que los dulces de las monjas no engordan. Es una mentira piadosa. Pero merece la pena creérsela. Buen provecho.

95 comentarios:

Rascaviejas dijo...

Ayuden a completar la lista de dulces según sus gustos. ¿Se dice dulces o pasteles?. ¿Cómo toman las yemas de San Leandro? ¿qué hacen con su cajita de madera? la hojaldrina ¿es de abuelitas? ¿les sobre el mantecado de limón o el de coco? ¿Son fanáticos de la fruta confitada o le caen mal como a la mayoría? ¿Está el petisú en decadencia? ¿Y las pastas de té? ¿Son del mazapán o también se queda solitario en su casa junto a las peladillas? ¿Turrón de chocolate u ordinarieces de frutas de colorines? ¿Se les ha quedado dura, con perdón, la bolsa de bollitos de Santa Inés? Opinen, que en gustos no hay nada escrito. O sí...

azul_y_plata_puro dijo...
Este comentario ha sido eliminado por el autor.
azul_y_plata_puro dijo...

Como dice la letrilla: "¡Ay conventos sevillanos, bellos palomares blancos, bollitos de Santa Inés y yemas de San Leandro!"
Y en cuanto a la adquisición de estos productos en "grandes superficies", no tiene ni punto de comparación cuando haces la compra - con limosna incluida - de dulces conventuales a través del torno y con ese breve y profundo diálogo que se da, precedido de su preceptivo y devoto Ave María Purísima.
Particularmente amigo Rascaviejas me uno a su opinión en lo referente al limón y el coco en los mantecados.
Por último, y para la Dama: no termino de entender su último comentario en el más rancio de los canales, no lo cojo (con perdón).
Saludos.

10:52 AM

eres_mi_cruz dijo...

El petisú no está en decadencia... lo que está es hueco como Joselito, el pequeño ruiseñor...

Quizá... dianser maifrén, is blogin in de rein...
pero fijo que en Ochoa hallarás muchas más respuestas...
las tienes en forma de pionono, savoy, palo, medialuna, sanmarco, parmera...

pregonero_de_sevilla dijo...

En esta Navidad ando con ganas de comprar bollitos de Santa Inés. Año tras año llega una caja de surtidos de este convento a casa, pero no incluye por lo general el más tradicional de sus manjares.

Lacava dijo...

Esto no se le hace a un diabético, profesor. Ya lo cogeré en mi calle.

Lorenzo Blanco dijo...

En esa ruta monástica-dulcera que Maese Rascaviejas ha trazado a través del corazón de mi barrio, entre San Clemente y Santa Ana, a la sombra de la torre de Don Fadrique existe una confiteria (actualmente cerrada por reformas), de lo más rancia y más conventual posible: Sarmiento.

En este lugar, se venden los mejores dulces de Sevilla, bajo mi modesto punto de vista: sultanas de coco, petisús, trufas, pasteles de todo tipo, tamaño y sabor. ¿Y que decir de sus tartas?. Los roscos de reyes provocan colas ante la entrada al compás de Santa Clara en las mañanas del 5 de enero.

De las medias noches, bollitos de leche y tocinos de cielo, ni les hablo.

Se que me dirán vds. que esto no es un convento, y su cancela no es un torno, pero el obrador, al final de un largo pasillo se hunde en los aledaños del Monasterio de Santa Clara, y esto, sin duda, imprime carácter.

Saludos

Ranzzionger dijo...

Con respecto a los bollitos de Santa Inés, siempre me he preguntado cómo algo tan excelso, recién hecho, puede alcanzar esa consistencia, tal que hubiera sido sometido a tratamiento con Viagra, a partir del siguiente día de su compra. Me imagino que será otro de los grandes secretos de la Sevilla Oculta.
Con respecto a mantecados y polvorones (con perdón), cosa cutre esos de sabores (el limón o el tan estepeño de coco), casi tanto como el turrón de frutas, la fruta escarchada y otras melindres, con las que hay que tener cuidado según qué lugar se visite. Así, uno puede ser sorprendido, tras los postres de comida cuaresmal y el socorrido "¿un cafelito?", en el que espera ser obsequiado con la jugosa torrija o el melífluo pestiño, con que le toque la simpar (por única) pera glaseada que sobró de la cesta de Navidad; la figurita de mazapán, patito que, de origen toledano, ha adquirido la turgencia del tan sevillano de la pila de S. Leandro; peladilla antiempaste, o el turrón, que de Jijona, mutó en Alicante.

Glauca Maria dijo...

¡Sultanas de coco! Que delicia.

el aguaó dijo...

Te has vuelto a superar. El recorrido es digno de preparárselo a conciencia. Un día sin desayunar se encaja uno en dicha ruta y se ceba de estas deliciosas exquisiteces.

Me sobra el mantecado de coco. El de limón y chocolate estan buenísimos. Tengo un amigo que me dice que soy más rancio que un mantecado de chocolate. Estoy con Eres mi cruz, no creo que el petisú esté en decadencia. El mazapán y las peladillas se quedan huérfanos siempre. Turrón de chocolate siempre... bueno y el blanco duro también.

Un fuerte abrazo amigo.

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